Pierpaolo Piccioli presented what he called "the most personal show I have done here" at Balenciaga during Paris fashion week on Thursday.
The Italian designer centred his collection around a monumental sculpture of undersea coral, crafted from fabric and placed in the middle of the catwalk. Piccioli, who wears a coral necklace as a signature accessory, used the installation to anchor a presentation rooted in couture craft.
The looks reflected Piccioli's design philosophy, which he shares with Balenciaga's founder Cristóbal Balenciaga. Both designers balance maximalism and minimalism, pursuing boldness without decoration. Each piece presented one clear idea executed with clean precision.
The collection included an ivory floor-length cape fastened with a simple gold clasp, a black suit with a single tangerine slash at the jacket hem, and a gown covered neck to ankle in bubbles of organza. The pieces favoured strong silhouette and fabric innovation over ornamental detail.